Catch a Day in Miramichi

The Mighty Miramichi

Cast your line for 24 hours of fun in Miramichi and hold on tight. The Mighty Miramichi is well known for its salmon fishing, but take my word for it - there is a lot more than fish to lure you here. So brace yourself for endless outdoor adventure, amazing local food & drink, a few fascinating history lessons, and a heaping measure of down-home hospitality. Welcome to the Chi.

French Fort Cove

French Fort Cove Park is the perfect place to begin your day of adventure in Miramichi. Reconnect with nature here and have a ton of fun while doing so. This beautiful historic area, formally known as Mill Cove, is a serene setting. Whether you like birding, hiking, biking, paddling, zip-lining, or maybe just picnicking while taking in the scenic views or sipping a hot or cold beverage while watching your children enjoy the playground, you will discover there is something for everyone here.

Maritimes Longest Zipline

Adventure seekers also frequent French Fort Cove for the extensive mountain bike trail system and the thrill of soaring along the Maritimes longest zipline. The vantage point on Over the Cove zipline allows one a quick search of the Headless Nun’s treasure deposit site. No luck this time but our group of four found plenty of other gems in the park. Learn more about this local legend and test your bravery by trekking through the eerie woods of French Fort Cove at the Dare the Dark for the Headless Nun Adventure which takes place Monday, Wednesday, and Friday evenings at 9 pm in July & August. Do you dare?

Have the Time of Your Life

Our group arrived late morning and we met up with Amanda, City of Miramichi Tourism Marketing Guide, who provided us with a tasty take-out lunch from Cali.co. Cafe that we enjoyed on a picnic table overlooking the cove. After we fuelled up, we took on this provincial park. We hiked, kayaked and braved the zlipine. Kudos to the kid coming off it - who convinced me to give it a go with his exclamation: “You’re going to have the time of your life!” This was the tipping point for me, and boy, was he right! Over the Cove zipline looks daunting but it offers spectacular views while crossing over the water. Your first ride is 1,400 feet long, the return is 1,100 feet long. Both are 60 feet above the water. Check out both my Instagram accounts (Coreen Hildebrand & Maritimes Maven) for video reels of the action.

New Maritime Beer Company

Next stop for our group of adventurers was a well-deserved pitstop for a local craft beer tasting at New Maritime Beer Company. The owners Matt Hutt & Brent Garrish raised a glass with us and we enjoyed a behind-the-scenes tour of their brewery. These proud Miramichers grew up here playing hockey together. After high school each left to pursue post-secondary education (and a healthy dose of traveling & adventure) and by 2015… found their way back, a little wiser, and with a few good stories to tell. The brewery idea was first formulated over one of those stories at a kitchen party in 2017. One thing led to another with the New Maritime taproom opening in January of 2020, and the online brewery following shortly thereafter. New Maritime Beer’s taproom & retail brewtique has great seating for a good-sized gathering & live music, but maintains a warm cozy feel. The paper boat logo gives a nostalgic nod and symbolizes a fresh take on the best the Maritimes has to offer. Set sail for the Miramichi, and stop in for a cold one. I recommend the Cherry Sour. It is an easy-drinking light pale ale that starts off subtle and builds its sour punch with every sip.

Ritchie Wharf

We discovered the charming waterfront park of Ritchie Wharf - a family-fun, happening spot. This once thriving shipbuilding community, celebrates its past with a striking tall ship sculpture and nautical-themed waterpark & playground. All summer long, locals & visitors alike gather for live music and dancing most evenings and Sunday afternoons. The boardwalk is lined with restaurants, gift shops, an artist gallery, and a popular ice cream shop. Boaters dock here and can also launch from a modest slip. Embark on a double-decker river boat cruise here, too (more later). Ritchie Wharf Park is within walking distance to the downtown shopping district and accommodations. Find a shady spot, sit back, then enjoy the music and waterfront views. Enjoy a knee-slapping, toe-tapping good ole time and don’t be shy - get up on that dance floor.

Vera’s Kitchen Restaurant and Bar

We could have spent a full day at Ritchie Wharf. The atmosphere is fun & lively. However, the highlight had to be the amazing food & drink and the panoramic waterfront views we enjoyed on Vera’s Kitchen Restaurant and Bar’s elevated deck. We shared a pitcher of white wine sangria and share-plate appetizers including the stuffed mushrooms, the lobster crostini, the pear & prosciutto flatbread, the PEI mussels in a leek, cream, onion, garlic & white wine broth, along with a full serving of the lobster mac & cheese. Cannot say enough about Vera’s deck. Do not miss it!

Three Dog Distillery

Three Dog Distillery was our next stop to meet owners Francis Malley & Cheryl Brown, who are producing high-quality small-batch spirits. Francis shared how he and Cheryl first decided to create this business. “Cheryl had retired after 35+ years… and was interested in pursuing something different & challenging. I had enjoyed making wine & beer as a hobby and had developed a great admiration and respect for Irish whiskeys. We have toured most of Ireland's distilleries and enjoyed the joyful atmosphere of many of their pubs. Where I am an architect, why not use our experiences to design a distillery and incorporate all the necessary components: a boutique; a pub (Tasting Room); and a working distillery.” The patience, skill and care that goes into creating such high-quality, small-batch spirits is impressive. You have to love what you do, have a relentless drive and passion for it, and believe in its viability by investing immensely… then you have to hang on and pray when a pandemic hits you in the middle of it all. But Three Dog Distillery came through it all and people absolutely love what they do here.

It has been a ride but Francis & Cheryl feel the rewards now. ”We started with the intention of creating a unique business, and in the process accumulated an extended family of friends - some old, many new. We are constantly reuniting with old schoolmates, former work colleagues and Miramichiers from away.” The tasting room when you first walk in makes a great first impression which leads intoThe Durty Dog Bar - a gathering place for public & private events and tastings where patrons are encouraged to “Come, Sit, Stay.” There is a large gift shop onsite with their handcrafted spirits and innovative branded merchandise for sale, along with a variety of giftware, seasonal home decor, and local & Canadian-made products.

We sidled up to the tasting bar and tried some of their products out for ourselves. They offer complimentary 1/4 oz samples of all their stock spirits for guests and The Durty Dog Bar drink menu has a variety of signature cocktails made with their spirits. I tried a couple of their specialty liqueurs including the Apple Pie Liqueur. Francis smiled and said, “This is what you wish your grandmothers apple pie tasted like.” The website suggests serving it over crushed ice. I also tried the very refreshing Lemonade Liqueur. It’s not too sweet, and not too bitter. Francis says it is best served over ice, or as a spritzer. That sounded perfect to me! Better get to the gift shop to bring some home - it’s looking like a hot summer!

All Aboard the Max Aitken River Boat

To fully enjoy the Miramichi, you must get out on the river for a good stretch of time and so far today, we had paddled on it, ziplined over it, walked next to it, and had several scenic views of it, and now it was our time to relax & savour it. We boarded the Max Aitken - a 50-passenger double-decker river boat for a 90-minute sunset cruise. The weather could not have be better and our group headed directly to the top deck - the best place to enjoy the view. All Aboard the Max Aitken River Boat!

Captain Azade Hache proved to be a very knowledgeable and witty tour guide. He has a gift for the gab and shared that he proudly speaks three languages: English, French and Miramichi. After deciphering the latter for us with several example of local sayings (and me re-explaining several of them over and over to my Toronto friend Will), we had a good laugh and we were off. Captain Azade entertained us with tidbits of local history & mystery on our river tour. He later shared that he started doing these tours about 28 years ago.

Captain Azade now shares the river’s rich history and key points of interest, and also suggests other activities and places not to miss when in Miramichi. He adds a dash of comedy and isn’t remiss at poking fun at those locals he knows onboard, too. His first mate is Dale, also a former school teacher. Azade tag teams Dale and they do not miss a beat in their commentary. These two keep things interesting and time flies as the Max Aitken makes its journey up the river & back again. Be prepared to sing when you go under the Centennial Bridge. It is all in the name of good fortune.

I discovered a perfect day for Captain Azade is spent on the Miramichi River. “It’s always been about the river.” He is proud to share where he lives with his guests and he hopes they will discover “the natural beauty of this part of the province and its people. I’ve been told many times how much of a hidden treasure we are.” Thanks to Miramichi River Boat Tours for sending me a couple favourite photographs (see below) of the Max Aitken next to a tall ship and one near the bridge at sunset. Tours depart Ritchie Wharf daily from May to October.

Rodd Miramichi

We disembarked the Max Aitken at the wharf by our accommodations for the night - The Rodd Miramichi River Hotel, and it was just in time for sunset. Will, Wendy and I had one more event to take in so we bid farewell to Captain Azade, and paused to soak in the sunset & appreciate the warm glow of what had been a truly phenomenal day. The Rodd Miramichi prides itself on its riverside location providing both views of and step-outside access to the river and recreational trails. Our riverside guestrooms were spacious & comfortable and we were looking at blue sky and blue water views in the morning. Truth be told, I had a hard time leaving the next day. It was another sunny one and I wished to soak up The Chi a little bit longer. However, we had another destination to discover and I was grateful for the wonderful sleep and great breakfast we enjoyed in the Rodd Miramichi’s Restaurant 1809. I later learned the Rodd Miramichi goes out of their way to help you find ways to play on land and water when you stay with them. Custom-made fishing packages are available and other guest amenities include an indoor pool, whirlpool and complete fitness centre. Goodbye Rodd Miramichi, I lamented the next morning. I’m sorry I was so tired I didn’t get any photographs of you inside. I hope to return again. Next time, I promise to stay longer, and enjoy the fine-dining I keep hearing about. You were lovely while you lasted.

Miramichi Kitchen Party

Is it really a trip to the Chi if you haven’t attended a kitchen party? Well, we were not going to take that risk, so we made our way to Connie Doucet & Paul McGraw’s Saltwater Sounds on Water Street to enjoy a taste of one of Atlantic Canada's premier travel trade events - The Miramichi Kitchen Party. We were welcomed into a kitchen-inspired venue and were treated to a sampling of songs, music, and stories from their 90-minute show. Connie & Paul’s soulful harmony and touching tales will have you spellbound. Paul & Connie have been entertaining audiences throughout the Maritimes & Eastern Canada since 1988. After seeing numerous motorcoaches arrive at the Rodd Miramichi, filled with potential audience members, Connie & Paul decided in 2000 to go on their own and open Saltwater Sounds - promoting East Coast musicians (including themselves) and the Miramichi Kitchen Party was born.

New Brunswick’s Best Kept Secret

Connie & Paul believe in order to experience Miramichi to the fullest, you must meet the people, learn about their history & the culture of the area, and get a taste of their music. Friends gathering in the kitchen to enjoy a great get together is the basis for their show. Come experience New Brunswick’s Best Kept Secret. Storytelling & music is key to the Miramichi Kitchen Party and it is not complete until the teapot comes out. “We serve tea, coffee, and dessert. The official tea by the way is King Cole - a New Brunswick product. And no kitchen party in New Brunswick is a true kitchen party until there is pot of King Cole tea on the table and that’s what we have.” When asked what a kitchen party means, Paul said it is “a gathering of friends & family in your home where the whole emphasis is just on having fun and sharing each other’s presence - that’s what a kitchen party is all about. It’s a spontaneous happening - and that’s what we offer.” Connie chimed in with, “we make them laugh, and we make them cry… Music has the ability to allow people to express their emotions. It also has the ability to heal.” Paul added, “if you can move someone to an emotional place… you have accomplished what you want to do. That’s what this is all about. As Connie said, we take them up, we take them down, we take them all over the place, but at the end of the night they’re yelling & cheering just like everyone else and it’s a FUN night.”

The best way to get a Miramichi Kitchen Party ticket is to monitor their Facebook page for dates & extra space in upcoming motorcoach tour performances. “Although we can't guarantee we will always have space, we do our best to accommodate... For the record, I have yet to turn any individuals away. We'll always make more room in the kitchen.”

Paul feels at the heart of Miramichi is the people. “Miramichiers are friendly, accommodating, and resilient. To enjoy Miramichi is to meet the people who live here. I have always said, "come visit Miramichi once, and then you'll come back as friends".”

I hope to do just that. I’ll be back, Paul. Save some room in the kitchen for me.

Cast Your Line for Miramichi

This was a mere snapshot of The Chi. It certainly is not all there is to see & do here. My short experience here was just a drop in the bucket. And don’t get me wrong, many people I spoke to indeed come here to fish and for good reason - the Miramichi River is world-famous for its salmon and striped bass fishing. The City of Miramichi website also suggests navigating a canoe on ancestral waters here, or gathering family & friends to go tubing down the river, or challenging yourself to a stand up paddle (SUP) board experience among many other options. I just hope my one day in The Chi has inspired you to visit. Cast your line out for Miramichi and see what it has to offer you.

This post was sponsored by New Brunswick Tourism; however, all thoughts and opinions are my own. Follow Maritimes Maven on FaceBook, Instagram, Pinterest & Twitter. Be the first to receive my latest articles by clicking on the ‘subscribe’ link at the top of this page. PIease share articles you love with your social media community. There’s No Place Like Home!